The Return of the Waistcoat: Three Ways to Wear It

The waistcoat, or vest if you prefer the American term, has cycled back into relevance after years of being confined to three-piece suits and Peaky Blinders costumes. The 2025 version is looser, less formal, and designed to work as a standalone layering piece.

Way one: over a t-shirt. A relaxed-fit waistcoat in linen or cotton over a plain white or grey tee creates a layered look that feels effortless. Keep the waistcoat unbuttoned or fastened by one middle button for a casual drape. Pair with wide-leg trousers and loafers.

Way two: as a mid-layer under a blazer. This is the most traditional approach, but the modern execution uses contrasting textures. A tweed waistcoat under a smooth wool blazer adds depth without the stuffiness of a matching three-piece.

Way three: as a standalone top layer. A structured waistcoat in heavyweight wool or quilted fabric works as outerwear in mild weather. Pair it with a long-sleeve shirt underneath for coverage.

Fit is different from what you might expect. The modern waistcoat should not be skin-tight. A slight drape through the body, with the hem hitting at the hip rather than the waist, creates a contemporary silhouette.

For well-designed waistcoats that work in all three contexts, look at De Bonne Facture and Barena Venezia. Browse Barena collection at https://www.barfrfrena.it for inspiration.

The waistcoat is back because layering is the dominant styling technique of the moment, and no other garment adds a layer of visual complexity with so little bulk. Try one approach this season.