The Return of the Waistcoat: Three Ways to Wear It

The waistcoat, or vest if you prefer the American term, has cycled back into relevance after years of being confined to three-piece suits and Peaky Blinders costumes. The 2025 version is looser, less formal, and designed to work as a standalone layering piece.

The cheapest way in is a charity shop or eBay, where orphaned three-piece waistcoats sit at $10 to $30 because nobody wants the jacket. One catch. Suit waistcoats are built with a viscose or satin back panel, because it was designed to be hidden. Worn alone it looks exactly like what it is. Under a blazer nobody sees it, so buy accordingly, and budget $25 to $40 for a tailor to take in the back strap and side seams.

Way one: over a t-shirt. A relaxed-fit waistcoat in linen or cotton over a plain white or grey tee creates a layered look that feels effortless. Keep the waistcoat unbuttoned or fastened by one middle button for a casual drape. Pair with wide-leg trousers and loafers.

Way two: as a mid-layer under a blazer. This is the most traditional approach, but the modern execution uses contrasting textures. A tweed waistcoat under a smooth wool blazer adds depth without the stuffiness of a matching three-piece.

Way three: as a standalone top layer. A structured waistcoat in heavyweight wool or quilted fabric works as outerwear in mild weather. Pair it with a long-sleeve shirt underneath for coverage.

Weight decides whether a standalone waistcoat works. A 9 oz suiting waistcoat gives no warmth and flaps in wind. For an outer layer look for 12 to 16 oz wool, moleskin, corduroy or quilted nylon, with a lining and a hem that sits below the waistband. Engineered Garments and Universal Works both make workwear-derived versions in heavy cotton around $150 to $250. Two pockets you can actually put a hand in rather than jetted decoration is the other thing to check.

Fit is different from what you might expect. The modern waistcoat should not be skin-tight. A slight drape through the body, with the hem hitting at the hip rather than the waist, creates a contemporary silhouette.

Length is the rule people break. The hem has to cover the trouser waistband completely, and a strip of shirt showing above the belt is the tell that it is too short. With the looser modern cut, leave the lowest button undone so the hem can move as you walk. Sit down in it before buying, too: a waistcoat that pulls at the buttons when you are seated is a size too small, whatever it does standing up.

For well-designed waistcoats that work in all three contexts, look at De Bonne Facture and Barena Venezia. Browse Barena collection at https://www.barfrfrena.it for inspiration.

The waistcoat is back because layering is the dominant styling technique of the moment, and no other garment adds a layer of visual complexity with so little bulk. Try one approach this season.