The Cardigan Is the Most Underrated Layer in Menswear

Somewhere along the way, the cardigan got coded as the garment of retirees and children's television hosts. That reputation is undeserved. A well-chosen cardigan is one of the most versatile layering pieces in menswear, sitting comfortably between a jacket and a pullover while offering something neither can: easy on-off temperature regulation without messing up your hair.

The shawl-collar cardigan is the most universally flattering style. The rolled collar frames the face and adds visual weight to the upper body, which works especially well for slimmer builds. In a chunky wool or wool-cashmere blend, it doubles as a house jacket or a soft alternative to a blazer for casual evenings out.

A zip-up cardigan in fine merino wool is the workwear equivalent of a Swiss army knife. It layers under a blazer without adding bulk, works over a button-down for smart casual settings, and transitions from office to dinner without feeling stuffy. John Smedley, the British knitwear brand operating since 1784, makes what many consider the definitive merino zip cardigan.

Japanese brands do cardigans better than almost anyone. Beams Plus and Inverallan for Beams produce chunky-knit cardigans with genuine hand-knit character. The Inverallan 6A, a traditional Aran-knit cardigan made by hand in Ireland for the Japanese market, is one of the most beautiful knitwear pieces you can buy under $400.

Fit is critical. A cardigan should skim your torso without hugging it. Too tight and it pulls at the buttons, creating gaps. Too loose and you look like you borrowed your grandfather's clothes. The hem should hit at your hip bone, and the sleeves should end at the wrist with minimal bunching.

For a modern, architectural approach to the cardigan, look at Studio Nicholson at https://www.studionicholson.com. Their knitwear emphasizes clean lines and oversized proportions that bring the cardigan into a contemporary context without losing its warmth and comfort.

Make the cardigan a non-negotiable part of your layering strategy. Whether you go shawl-collar, button-front, or zip-up, it solves the problem of looking put together in temperature-uncertain environments. One good cardigan will earn more wear than most jackets in your closet.