Why the Power of a Good Olive Oil Cannot Be Overstated
2025-01-28 · 7 min read
Most of the olive oil in American pantries is mediocre at best and fraudulent at worst. A 2010 study from UC Davis found that 69 percent of imported olive oil labeled extra virgin failed to meet the legal standard. The oil had been cut with cheaper seed oils, was oxidized, or was made from lower-grade olives. If your extra virgin olive oil cost five dollars for a liter, there is a strong chance it is not what the label claims.
Real extra virgin olive oil should taste like something. Freshness presents as grassiness, pepperiness, and a slight bitterness that catches the back of your throat. That cough-inducing sensation is caused by oleocanthal, a polyphenol with anti-inflammatory properties comparable to ibuprofen. If your olive oil tastes like nothing, or worse, like crayons or rancid nuts, it has gone bad or was never good.
California producers are the safest bet for quality. California Olive Ranch, Graza, Brightland, and Katz Farm are all transparent about sourcing and freshness. Graza's Drizzle oil, sold in a squeeze bottle for finishing, has become a cult favorite for its accessibility and genuinely good flavor. For imported options, look for harvest date on the label, not just a best-by date, and buy from the current year's harvest.
Use good olive oil for finishing: drizzle it on soups, salads, grilled meats, bread, eggs, and ice cream. Yes, ice cream. A fruity, peppery olive oil on vanilla gelato is a revelation. Use a more affordable, still-decent oil for cooking. Heat degrades the delicate flavors of a high-end oil, so save the good stuff for when you can taste it directly.
Keep your olive oil in a dark bottle or tin, away from heat and light. Do not store it next to the stove. Do not leave it in a clear bottle on the windowsill. Olive oil begins degrading the moment it is pressed, and exposure to light, heat, and air accelerates the process. Buy smaller bottles and use them quickly. A half-liter that you finish in a month beats a liter that sits open for six months turning rancid.
