The Beginner's Guide to Mezcal That Goes Beyond Del Maguey
2024-11-27 · 5 min read
Del Maguey was the gateway brand that introduced most Americans to mezcal, and it deserves credit for that. But the world of mezcal extends far beyond any single producer. There are over 30 species of agave used to make mezcal, produced across nine Mexican states by mezcaleros using techniques passed down through generations. Stopping at Del Maguey is like visiting one block of Paris and declaring you know the city.
Start by understanding the categories. Mezcal, mezcal artesanal, and mezcal ancestral represent increasing levels of traditional production. Ancestral mezcal is made entirely by hand, from pit-roasting the agave in underground ovens to crushing it with a tahona stone wheel and distilling in clay pots. These bottles cost more, but they taste like nothing else on earth.
Banhez is the best budget entry point, a blend of espadin and barril agave that costs under $30 and delivers genuine complexity. Montelobos makes an excellent espadin with bright citrus notes that works beautifully in cocktails. Bozal offers a range of wild and cultivated agave expressions that showcase how different plants produce radically different spirits.
For the adventurous, seek out bottles from smaller producers. Real Minero from Santa Catarina Minas uses clay pot distillation and produces mezcals with an earthy, mineral quality unlike anything else. Lalocura offers single-village, single-agave expressions that taste like specific places. These bottles are harder to find and more expensive, but they represent mezcal at its most authentic.
The best way to learn mezcal is to visit a mezcaleria. In Mexico City, spots like Bosforo and La Clandestina offer extensive mezcal lists with knowledgeable staff who can guide you through flights. In the US, bars like Espita in Washington DC and Ghost Donkey in New York specialize in agave spirits and can walk you through the differences between espadin, tobala, and cuishe.
